Life in Dairy Land

Goat milk is a niche product.  It is closer to human milk than cow’s milk, and for this reason, it is often easier for people to digest.  Rock Ridge Dairy is a family run organic dairy farm that primarily produces goat products, but recently expanded to include organic cow products as well.  Their operation is quite large, but they have very few staff and work long hours.  They are distinct from a lot of other producers we have visited because their main market is to grocery stores, and they sell their product under various other names.

We toured through the facilities with Cherylynn Bos, who owns the dairy along with her husband, Patrick Bos. We were able to sample their whole product line, which was fantastic.  Both the cow’s and the goat’s milk were sweeter than conventional milks, and the feta and chevre were incredibly creamy.

We have consistently been astounded by how much skill it takes to farm sustainably, produce excellent products, and find enough time to sleep, but talking with Patrick and Cherylynn gave us a new appreciation for the challenges involved in getting farm products to market. 

In order to list one product in one grocery store, it generally costs around $4000 per year.  To list the product across Canada can be several tens of thousands more.   If a product delivery misses the 15-minute window provided by the grocery store, the producer will be fined $1000.  In preparation for these deadlines, Patrick and Cherylynn tag team between sleeping and working so that production can run all night.  

They emphasized the importance of growing slowly and steadily.  It’s important to have a well-managed operation in order to guarantee supply and quality of production.  They have about 500 goats, milking about 300-350 of them twice per day, year round.  They need to maintain a steady rotation of baby goats in order to ensure a constant milk supply: if their supply is too variable, they risk losing clients to more stable sources.

Producers don’t have independent access to everyone who would be interested in selling their product.  Hiring a distributor establishes this link, but doing so costs the producer about 20% on all the profits.  In the end, the producer may end up making significantly less than the distributor, even though they have done all the labour and carried all the risk.  The benefit, of course, is that the product is able to reach a larger audience.  Because of these difficulties, producers have to be pretty confident of their product’s ability to sell well. 

The Bos family is extremely ambitious and hard working.  Their product line currently includes organic cow’s and goat’s milk, goat feta, and goat chevre, but they have plans to expand both their cow and goat lines.   Albertans can (and should!) purchase their Rock Ridge Dairy products at any of these locations.  In Western Canada, they also sell under a number of different names, including Happy Days Dairy and Oak Island or, when they’re sold under a grocery store’s brand, their products can be found by searching for the plant code ‘4210’ on the package.

Talking with these two really gave us perspective as to how much producers have to sacrifice in order to deliver their products to consumers.  It also illuminated the struggles producers face beyond managing the risks of production.  We left with a deepened respect for the many people whose life work it is to provide food for the rest of us. 

-DV

Surrounded by Curious Beasts

Any Canadian living in the 21st century has heard of Alberta beef, but how many people’s dinner plates have benefited from the country’s recent bison renaissance? Bison were abundant in North America for around 10,000 years, and in 1800, there were over 60 million bison roaming the continent.  The First Nations were deeply connected to the animal, relying on them for almost everything: food, clothing, tools, and more.  By 1899, the arrival and settlement of European communities, the introduction of unsustainable hunting practices, and culling, the bison population fell to just under 1000. 

The presence of bison today is the result of a huge conservation effort throughout the 20th century.  Ranchers and conservationists kept private herds and some herds were protected in national parks.  There are now approximately 500,000 bison on the continent, with 240,000 of those being in Canada, and about half of those residing in Alberta.  Bison populations are now stable and protected.

On our drive through Northern BC, we ran into a pack of wild bison sunning near the highway, but kept our distance because anyone who has scoured YouTube for bison attack videos knows this is what you do.  On a visit to Maple Hills Bison Farm, owned and operated by Gustav Janke just outside of Edmonton, we found ourselves planted within a herd of about 100 bison.  I’ve been known to tremble before a horse.  (I know, I know, a horse? But seriously, those animals KICK people!) I respect the space of wild animals, which is to say, I am reverently afraid of them. 

When we first got there, we drove way out into the middle of their field and were quickly surrounded.  Bison may be wild, but their first instinct is not to attack.  Gus explained that they are simply very curious animals, and will exhibit explicit warning signs if agitated: stomping, head shaking, and an upright tail.  There was one tame bison that was bottle fed as a calf—he was a cuddly beast, sidling up beside me and even letting me give him a noogie.

Everything about these beasts seems larger than life.  They are the largest North American land mammals, their eyes are roughly the size of my fist, and they have incredibly thick shoulders, neck, and head, with lean back ends that make them look comically out of balance. 

At birth, they are roughly 40 pounds, and can run within an hour of hitting the ground.  A herd of bison can run sustained speeds of 30 miles per hour, and jump a 5-foot fence both ease and grace.

If you want to get a sense for just how big these beasts are, wrap yourself in a bison hide.  Not only will you immediately start sweating, but you’ll look incredibly glamorous. 

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The hides are so warm, they were used to make coats worn by early RCMP on the prairies.

There are certain advantages to raising bison over cows.  They eat about two thirds less than cows and, because of their slower metabolisms, can break down food better, resulting in leaner meat.  Because bison are hearty winter survivors, they don’t require any shelter or wind protection, as cows do.  Bison are completely wild and independent beasts, built for survival. 

Maple Hills Bison Farm, in addition to raising bison on their natural diet, is also off the grid.  The farm has an all-season, solar powered, automatic water pump system.  

The bison are butchered and packaged just 42 miles from the farm, and distributed by Gus himself.  Contact Gus directly at bisongus@live.ca to get your hands on the meat of one of Canada’s oldest (and biggest) heritage land beasts.

-DV